Cagayan de Oro City
Three major cities in the
island of Mindanao in southern Philippines have become major travel spots in recent years
-- Zamboanga City, Davao City, and Cagayan
de Oro City. These urban centers provide unique forms
of southern hospitality in Mindanao for every traveler. Mt.
Apo is also an important travel spot especially for mountain
climbers and nature lovers.
City is situated at the southwestern tip of Mindanao. The capital of Zamboanga
del Sur province has been called the "City of Flowers," though nowadays it is
more popularly known as the "City of Sotanghon." Sotanghon is
a kind of noodles and is fairly representative of what is to be found in the city's main
attraction--its barter market.
Kumpits (long deep covered motorboats) carry
cargo between Zamboanga and the ports of Borneo, and these cargoes stock the barter market
located at the beginning of the wharf. Not so long ago, kumpits made their
way clandestinely rather than openly, for smuggling had for centuries been a way of life
in this part of the world. All efforts to eradicate smuggling failed, so the
Philippine government pragmatically decided to legalize the trade. The result is the
barter market which sells food, toiletries, batik, and other goods from Borneo.
From the wharf the open-air market continues in a number of long sheds where,
tucked between a fruit stall and a meat stall, one can discover Chinese porcelain, Moro
brass, and tribal weaving.
The offices of the Department of Tourism
are located in the Lantaka Hotel facing the sea. On the hotel's terrace, one might
try dining on curacha, Zamboanga's culinary specialty. It is a kind of
half-crab, half-lobster. At the hotel's seawall, a dozen or so vintas are
moored. Aboard them are Badjaos (sea gypsies) and Samals--mostly
are showcases for brush and brain corals, cowrie and cone, conch and clam, tambuli
and turban shells. Small mounds of red, white, and black coral necklaces and black
coral bracelets occupy the space between large turtle shells. Also aboard the vintas
are bundles of pandanus mats that display geometric patterns in mauve, purple,
violet, green, and yellow. It is easy to see why Badjao women have earned
the reputation of being the finest mat weavers in the archipelago.
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canoes putter around the vintas. Toss a coin, and immediately three or four
children jump into the sea to retrieve it. What will happen to the three-month old
baby that his siblings have abandoned? Not much; for if he falls overboard, he will
swim. It is said of the Badjao that, as soon as he is born, a child is
thrown into the water and, if he cannot swim, is considered unworthy and left to drown.
past the Lantaka Hotel is Fort Pilar, its
one-meter thick, coral walls overgrown with green moss. A bronze plaque at the
eastern gate tells not only its dramatic story but also much of the history of
Mindanao. Built in 1635, abandoned in 1663, rebuilt in 1718, it has been a bastion
through the centuries against Muslim, Dutch, British, and Portuguese attacks. With
the occupation by the Americans in 1898, it became Pettit Barracks. Built into the
eastern wall is the open-air shrine of the patron saint of Zamboanga, the Lady of Del
Pilar. Here, the faithful light their candles and make their vows.
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Davao, the largest city in Mindanao and the third largest in the
Philippines, is situated at the head of Davao Gulf in the southeast quadrant of the
island. At the airport, a gaily painted statue in tribal attire, holding a durian,
welcomes visitors. Davaoenos say the figure is that of a Manobo native who
is the true aborigine of Davao. A settlement of Manobos can be visited in
Calinan, fifty minutes by car from Davao.
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Insular Hotel, midway between the airport and the shopping centers, one can relax over a
glass of fresh tuba (palm wine) in the immaculately-kept, mini-Versailles lawn.
Sixteen mananguetes (men who tap palm trees for tuba) make this the
largest tuba producing area in Davao. The tapping of trees for tuba
is said to prevent coconuts from ripening and falling on hotel guests' heads.
Davao's new harbor, where there is a
factory for extracting oil from copra, is about eight kilometers further up the
gulf. Several small restaurants in this area serve kilawin (raw fish eaten
with vinegar and soy sauce), for which Davao has earned the monicker "Little
The rare and
endangered Philippine eagle (pithecophaga jeffreyi), native to the forests of the
Philippines, makes its home at the Philippine Eagle Nature Center in Calinan. Spread
over a vast forest reserve which is also home to a wide variety of indigenous plants and
birds, this nature conservancy is responsible for the propagation of the species.
Guests are treated to a 30-minute film show which traces the breeding, incubation, and
hatching of Pag-asa (meaning "hope")--the first Philippine eagle born
and bred in captivity.
The Field Museum, 1998
Philippine Convention & Visitors Corporation, 1992
year-round fair climate is conducive to the propagation of orchids. The pride of
Davao, the walingwaling (vanda sanderiana) is endemic to the region. Its
mother plant was discovered by a German scientist upon the slopes of Mount Apo.
Today the walingwaling and other hybrids are cultivated in the many orchid farms
scattered across the countryside. From April to September, the slopes of these farms
are carpeted in exotic, fragile blooms.
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in fine weather, majestic
Mount Apo, the highest peak in the Philippines, can be seen to the
south of Davao. It is a gigantic verdant cap stretching to a height of 2,909 meters
and covering 76,000 hectares. Justly called
the "grandfather of Philippine mountains", Apo is a dormant volcano. With
no recorded eruptions, its jagged crater walls nevertheless are mute testimony to ancient
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April and early May are the best
times to climb Apo. Allot four days for the trek which is tiring rather than trying,
delightful rather than difficult, and which can be accomplished readily by the reasonably
fit, aged seven or seventy. The first portion of the climb is gentle and through
open country where industrious Manobos farm corn, coffee, and camote (sweet
potato). You may well be invited to join them for a cup of coffee in their simple nipa
(palm) huts. On this part of the climb you might have the wondrous good fortune to
spot a haribon (monkey-eating eagle), one of the rarest and largest eagles in the
world. After about four hours you reach Agko Blue Lake. Parts of this shallow
steaming lake are icy cold; other parts are boiling hot. A giant log cabin by the
lake with sleeping accommodation for 200 makes this a convenient spot at which to spend
the first night. The altitude here is 1200 meters.
The Fookien Times Philippines Yearbook, 1998
The Field Museum, 1998
The second day's hike through
countryside, where orchids abound and moss-covered jungle trees hide giant pitcher plants,
takes you along a trail that crosses and recrosses -- nine times in all -- the swift,
milky white Marbel River. At some points the ten-meter-wide river must be forded; at
others there are inchoate bridges. The altitude is now 1800 meters and the climb is
much steeper, but a refreshing break awaits you when you reach the hot springs at 2100
meters. Just beyond the springs are twin waterfalls, each about four meters wide,
whose waters plummet down a vertical drop of about 17 meters. In the late afternoon,
after walking through a fairyland of brown and green ferns, you stumble upon a lush flat
lawn covered with a carpet of thick soft Bermuda grass. The lawn outlines the
irregular contours of shallow Lake Venado whose waters reflect the peak of Apo. The
lake derives its name from the fanciful resemblance of its shape to that of a deer or,
others claim, from being the watering place for herds of the horned ruminant.
The altitude is 2400 meters. It is an ideal place to pitch camp before making the
final assault on the peak early the next morning.
The Field Museum, 1998
The Field Museum, 1998
|The trail from Lake Venado to the summit
is rocky in parts and much steeper than earlier, but no more than three hours is necessary
to traverse it. The jagged contours of the peak come into view
as you emerge from a moss-covered
From the peak you can
look a couple hundred meters down into a large oval crater whose sulphurous vents spew
yellow fumes. Also from the peak the panoramic view across several provinces beyond
Davao City to the Pacific Ocean
is immensely breathtaking. Don't forget
to take a souvenir sulfur rock with you,
the symbol of having conquered Mount Apo. It is time to descend and freshen
up in the tranquil waters of Lake
Venado, alongside which the third and last night of the trek may be spent.
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DE ORO CITY
A sprawling city bisected by the Cagayan
River, Cagayan de Oro sits in the middle of Mindanao's north coast and is
the staging point for a trip to the Malasag Eco-Tourism Village, a theme
park 12 kilometers away.
Here one finds a microcosm of all ethnic cultures in
northern Mindanao. Agricultural tools, ethnic instruments, and ornaments of the Manobo,
Matigsalog, Subanon, Talaandig, and Higaonon tribes are on display in tribal
huts. The flora-and-fauna exhibit features an orchidarium, a butterfly garden, an
aviary, and a deer habitat. Try to catch a demonstration on ancient tribal crafts as
well as cultural shows on native songs, dances, and rituals. There are also ample
backpacking, bird-watching, and camping trips to join.
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From Malasag an exciting half-day excursion can be
arranged to visit the Huluga Caves where
archaeological material which may date from the late Neolithic (ca. 2500 B.C.)
has been unearthed. The portals to three tiny caves can be reached by climbing 25
meters up a partially buried old tree on the east bank of the Cagayan River. To get
there, look for a guide and cable boat operator in Barrio Balulang and cross a tributary
of the Cagayan River. The river is 100 meters wide, the current swift, and the cable
boat crossing not for the timid. Alternatively, at high tide it may be possible to
reach the caves by renting a pumpboat at the bridge in downtown Gaston Park; however, the
voyage is against the current.
Insight Guides: Philippines
Camp Philips, some 30 kilometers to the east of
Cagayan de Oro City, is headquarters of Del Monte's Philippine Packing Corporation.
Here may be the world's largest pineapple plantation, covering some 9000 hectares.
It is said that an old airstrip within the estate was where General Douglas MacArthur took
off for Australia after being whisked off Corregidor during World War II, and that the
Americans considered carrying out their 1944 landing on Macajalar
Bay, before eventually picking typhoon-prone Leyte. The Americans lucked
out. Leyte was hit by a typhoon five days after the landing.
adventure the Canopy Walk in Claveria, a
two-hour jeepney ride from Cagayan de Oro, offers the thrill of tight-rope traversing high
above the lush rain forest.